Willapa National Wildlife Refuge

Long Island is the largest estuarine island on the Pacific coast, and near its southern end grows a stand of old-growth western red cedar that escaped the logging that took nearly everything like it. The trees are enormous and impossibly old, their trunks fluted and mossy, some rooted in the ground for more than a thousand years. Walking among them, on a trail of roughly two and a half miles from the old ferry landing, feels like stepping backward through time.

There is no bridge and no scheduled boat to Long Island. Visitors cross the narrow tidal channel in their own canoe, kayak, or small boat, timing it to the tides, which run strong through the shallow water. That effort is exactly why the grove stays so peaceful, and why the crossing should be planned carefully rather than improvised.

On the mainland, the refuge holds a remarkable variety of country in a small space. There are salt marshes that flood and drain with the tide, broad mudflats alive with clams and worms, freshwater wetlands, coastal dunes, and stretches of quiet beach. Each supports its own community of plants and animals, and the seams between them are where the wildlife concentrates.

Trails and access points let you sample this mosaic without a boat. Short paths lead through spruce and cedar forest, out to marsh overlooks, and along the bay, and the Leadbetter Point unit at the tip of the peninsula offers dune and beach walking where the ocean and the bay nearly meet.

The bay's tideflats are a critical stop on the Pacific Flyway, and in spring and fall they fill with shorebirds resting and feeding on their long migrations, sometimes in flocks so large they move like smoke over the water. Winter brings ducks, geese, and swans in great numbers, along with the raptors that follow them.

The forests and marshes hold their own residents year round. Roosevelt elk browse the edges of the meadows, black bears work the berry patches, and bald eagles nest in the tall trees. Along the shore you may find harbor seals hauled out and, in the water, salmon moving through on their way to the refuge's clean streams.

Because the refuge is scattered in units around the bay, a little planning goes a long way. The mainland headquarters along Highway 101 is a good first stop for maps and current conditions, and from there you can choose among short forest and marsh trails, the dune and beach country at Leadbetter Point, or, for the well prepared, the boat crossing to Long Island and its cedars.

Tides govern almost everything here. They set when the flats fill with birds, when a boat crossing is safe, and where you can walk, so a tide table is as important as a trail map. Come dressed for mud and rain in nearly any season, and give yourself unhurried time, because this is a place that reveals itself slowly, on its own schedule.

The closest Boutel™ stays, so you can turn this stop into an overnight. Each is a place we chose through independent editorial review, never a paid placement.

Willapa National Wildlife Refuge, around Willapa Bay on the southwestern Washington coast, protects a rich variety of habitats, from tidal flats, marshes, and estuary to old-growth forest, dunes, and beaches, supporting abundant wildlife and one of the cleanest estuaries in the country. The refuge is a haven for birds, drawing huge numbers of migratory shorebirds and waterfowl, along with other wildlife, and it includes the remarkable Long Island with its ancient old-growth red cedar grove. Offering trails, wildlife viewing, and pristine natural beauty, Willapa National Wildlife Refuge provides excellent birdwatching and a glimpse of a healthy coastal ecosystem on the southwestern Washington coast.

You can watch for abundant birds, especially the large flocks of migratory shorebirds and waterfowl that the estuary attracts, hike trails through diverse habitats, visit Long Island, accessible by boat, to see its ancient old-growth cedar grove, explore the tidal flats and marshes, birdwatch, and enjoy the pristine coastal scenery and wildlife. Bringing binoculars enhances the birdwatching, and low tide reveals the mudflats where shorebirds feed. With its exceptional birdwatching, diverse habitats, old-growth cedars on Long Island, and pristine estuary, Willapa National Wildlife Refuge offers a rewarding nature and wildlife-viewing experience on the southwestern Washington coast.

Long Island, within Willapa National Wildlife Refuge, is the largest estuarine island on the Pacific coast and is home to a remarkable grove of ancient old-growth western red cedar, some of the trees centuries old, a rare surviving remnant of the once-vast coastal forests. Accessible only by boat across a channel of Willapa Bay, the island offers trails, primitive camping, and the chance to walk among the majestic ancient cedars and diverse wildlife in a wild, pristine setting. Reaching Long Island requires paddling or boating and attention to the tides. The island's old-growth grove and wild character make it a special highlight of the refuge.

Fall through spring is excellent for birdwatching, when huge numbers of migratory shorebirds and wintering waterfowl gather in the estuary, with the spring and fall migrations especially spectacular, while spring and fall also offer pleasant weather for the trails, and summer is mild for exploring and visiting Long Island. Low tide reveals the mudflats for shorebirds. Dawn and dusk are best for wildlife. For the most abundant birdlife, aim for the migration seasons, while summer is best for visiting Long Island, at Willapa National Wildlife Refuge on the southwestern Washington coast.

Willapa National Wildlife Refuge surrounds Willapa Bay on the southwestern Washington coast, near the Long Beach Peninsula with its long beaches, the historic village of Oysterville, the town of Long Beach, and within reach of Cape Disappointment State Park and Astoria, Oregon. That makes Willapa National Wildlife Refuge a rewarding nature stop to combine with the Long Beach Peninsula, Oysterville, Cape Disappointment, and the other attractions of the southwestern Washington coast on a visit to the state.