Valles Caldera National Preserve

The great bowl of Valles Caldera was made by fire. More than a million years ago an enormous volcano erupted here, one of the largest kinds on Earth, throwing out so much rock and ash that the ground above the emptied magma chamber collapsed inward. What was left was a giant circular pit many miles across, the caldera you see today.

The volcano is not truly gone. After the collapse, fresh magma pushed the center of the caldera back up into a broad dome, forming Redondo Peak, which rises above eleven thousand feet. And though it is quiet now, the volcano still breathes a little, in the warm hot springs and steaming vents scattered around the mountains. The ground here is even littered in places with obsidian, the shiny black volcanic glass that the volcano created.

Inside the caldera the land is a patchwork of wide grassy meadows, called valles, and rounded forested domes of rock. The largest and most famous meadow is Valle Grande, a huge open basin miles across that most visitors see first from the highway. Clear cold streams wind through the grass, and forests of pine and aspen climb the surrounding slopes.

It is this mix that gives the preserve its beauty and its life. The high, cool meadows hold water and grass that feed great numbers of animals, while the forested domes and the ring of mountains shelter the valley and keep its darkness intact. In autumn the aspens turn gold and the elk begin to bugle, one of the finest times to visit.

Valles Caldera is famous for its elk. One of the largest elk herds in New Mexico grazes the open valley floor, and at dawn and dusk you can often see them scattered across the grass like cattle. In the fall the bulls bugle, their eerie calls carrying across the meadows, a sound visitors remember long after they leave.

The elk share the caldera with plenty of other animals. Prairie dogs pop up from their towns in the grass, coyotes trot along the meadow edges, black bears roam the forested slopes, and many kinds of birds fill the valley. The preserve's high meadows and quiet streams make it one of the best places in the region to watch wildlife going about its day.

Getting to Valles Caldera is half the pleasure, since the route runs along the scenic highway through the Jemez Mountains. The land here has a long human history, from Ancestral Puebloan people who quarried the caldera's obsidian for tools to the cattle ranch that later worked the meadows, and its dramatic scenery has made it a filming location for movies and television.

The surrounding country is full of things to see. Just down the highway lies Bandelier National Monument, with ancient cliff dwellings carved into the soft volcanic rock. Nearby sits Los Alamos, the town famous for its role in twentieth-century science, and to the southwest is the village of Jemez Springs, known for its hot springs and for the striking mineral formation of Soda Dam beside the river.

The closest Boutel™ stays, so you can turn this stop into an overnight. Each is an independently owned, editorially selected place to stay.