Malheur National Wildlife Refuge

This is the homeland of the Northern Paiute, whose Wadatika band lived across the Harney Basin, gathering fish and waterfowl and the seeds and roots of the marsh and the desert. Their descendants today are the Burns Paiute Tribe, based just north of the refuge.

At the turn of the twentieth century, the marsh birds were being shot by the thousands. Plume hunters killed egrets, herons, and grebes for their feathers, which fashion demanded for women’s hats. Two young wildlife photographers, William Finley and Herman Bohlman, documented both the birds and the destruction, and Finley carried his photographs to President Theodore Roosevelt. On August 18, 1908, Roosevelt set aside the lakes and marshes as a federal bird reserve. It has since grown to more than 187,000 acres.

Long before it was a refuge, this valley was cattle country. In the 1870s a young cattleman named Peter French built one of the largest ranches in the West here, the P Ranch, running thousands of head across the Blitzen Valley. He left his mark on the map. The little town of Frenchglen at the refuge’s south end still carries his name, and out on the desert stands his round barn, a great circular building where cowboys broke horses through the winter, now preserved as a state heritage site. French was shot and killed in a land dispute in 1897.

The refuge sits in the Harney Basin, a bowl in the Great Basin high desert where the water has no outlet to the sea. Snowmelt from Steens Mountain, the great fault-block ridge that rises to the south, feeds the Donner und Blitzen River, which runs north through the Blitzen Valley into shallow Malheur Lake. The river carries a strange name: a cavalry officer crossing it in an 1864 thunderstorm called it Donner und Blitzen, German for thunder and lightning, and it stuck.

In wet years Malheur and neighboring Harney Lake spread far across the basin floor; in dry years they pull back to mudflats. The whole scene lies around 4,100 feet, ringed by sagebrush, rimrock, and the volcanic strangeness of nearby Diamond Craters. It is enormous, quiet, and a very long way from anywhere, which is exactly why the birds love it.

Malheur is a green island in a sea of desert, and to a bird flying the Pacific Flyway it is a place to come down and rest. Spring is the great event, when snow geese, northern pintails, tundra and trumpeter swans, and clouds of other waterfowl pour through by the tens of thousands. Sandhill cranes bugle across the wet meadows and stay on to nest.

The variety is the whole point. Marsh and open water draw the waterfowl, the ibis, and the grebes; the wet meadows bring shorebirds and cranes; and the surrounding sagebrush and juniper hold desert birds and birds of prey. Golden eagles hunt the basin, and the refuge counts dozens of mammal species as well, from mule deer to pronghorn out on the flats.

Spring is why birders make the long drive. From roughly March into May the migration peaks, the marsh is loud and full, and the desert briefly greens. It is the busiest and most rewarding season.

Summer settles into nesting, with young birds on the water and hot, bright, dry days across the basin. Early morning and evening are the times to be out.

Fall brings the southbound migration and cooler air, a quieter echo of spring, with waterfowl staging on the lakes and raptors moving through.

Winter is cold and still, the marsh often frozen and the crowds long gone. It is a season for wintering raptors, eagles among them, and for having the vast landscape almost entirely to yourself.

The closest Boutel™ stays, so you can turn this stop into an overnight. Each is an independently owned, editorially selected place to stay.