El Malpais Lava Tubes and La Ventana Arch
El Malpais Ranger Station (BLM), NM-117, Grants, NM
Grants, NM
Ice-floored lava caves and a soaring sandstone arch flanking one of New Mexico's great fields of black volcanic rock.
On the eastern edge of the El Malpais badlands south of Grants, two very different wonders sit close together. Beneath the black lava flows lie lava tubes, long caves formed when rivers of molten rock crusted over and drained away, leaving hollow tunnels behind. Some of these tubes hold ice year-round, cold pockets where winter never fully leaves, even as the desert bakes overhead.
A short drive along the sandstone cliffs stands La Ventana Arch, the window in Spanish, a great sweep of stone arcing out from the cliff face and among the largest natural arches in New Mexico. Together the ice caves and the arch bookend a landscape of raw volcanic rock and towering sandstone, a place where the geology feels startlingly young and close to the surface.
What Travelers Love
- Exploring lava-tube caves, some floored with ice that lasts through the year
- Standing beneath La Ventana, one of the largest natural arches in New Mexico
- The stark contrast of black lava flows against tan sandstone cliffs
- A sense of raw, geologically young land where the earth still looks freshly made
Worth Knowing
- Caving means rough, sharp lava, so bring sturdy boots, gloves, multiple light sources, and a helmet
- Some caves require a free permit and follow rules to protect fragile ice and bats, so check with the ranger station first
- To protect bats from white-nose syndrome, do not wear or bring gear that has been in other caves
- The lava is jagged and easy to get lost on, so stay oriented, carry water, and mind the weather
Learn about El Malpais Lava Tubes and La Ventana Arch
How the lava tubes formed
The El Malpais lava flows are geologically young, some of the most recent volcanic activity in the region, and the lava tubes are a direct product of how the flows moved. As a river of molten lava ran across the land, its surface cooled and hardened into a crust while the hot lava beneath kept flowing. When the eruption waned, the molten rock drained out from under the crust, leaving a long hollow tunnel.
Many of these tubes are now collapsed in places, opening skylights and cave entrances into the dark passages below. In some tubes, cold air pools and never fully drains, so seeping water freezes into floors and formations of ice that persist through the summer. These ice caves are fragile and slow to form, which is why access is managed carefully to protect them.
La Ventana Arch and the sandstone cliffs
La Ventana Arch spans a gap in the pale sandstone cliffs that line the eastern edge of the badlands. It formed as water, frost, and wind slowly wore away weaker rock beneath a more resistant layer, hollowing out an opening and then widening it into a great arc of stone. It is one of the largest and most accessible natural arches in New Mexico, reached by a short walk up a small canyon.
The sandstone here was laid down long before the lava, in an era of ancient deserts and shallow seas, and the cliffs glow warm gold and buff in the sun. The meeting of this old sedimentary rock with the young black lava just to the west makes the drive along NM-117 a lesson in deep time, with hundreds of millions of years on display side by side.
People on the badlands
The El Malpais country has been part of the homeland of the Ancestral Puebloan people and their descendants for a very long time, and it remains deeply significant to the modern Pueblos of Acoma, Laguna, and Zuni, along with the Navajo Nation. Ancient trails cross the lava, and the surrounding mesas and valleys hold a long record of Native life. The lava and its landmarks figure in the living traditions of these communities.
Spanish and later travelers found the badlands a formidable barrier, which is how they earned the name malpais. In more recent times the region was protected as El Malpais National Monument and the adjacent conservation area, safeguarding both the natural formations and the cultural heritage woven through them. Visitors are asked to treat the whole landscape, natural and cultural, with respect.
Wildlife, plants, and seasons
Life clings to this harsh landscape in remarkable ways. Ancient, twisted junipers and ponderosa pines root in cracks in the lava, some of them centuries old, and bats roost in the caves and tubes. Wildlife includes mule deer, coyotes, and a range of desert birds and reptiles, all adapted to a land with little soil and less water.
Spring and fall bring the most pleasant weather for hiking and caving, with mild days and cool nights. Summer is hot on the black lava, which soaks up the sun, though the caves stay cold and the monsoon storms can green the land. Winter is cold and can bring snow, which lies startlingly white across the black rock. The ice caves stay cold in every season, a permanent pocket of winter underground.
Closest Boutels
The closest Boutel™ stays, so you can turn this stop into an overnight. Each is a place we chose through independent editorial review, never a paid placement.
Details
Grants, NM
Frequently asked questions
What are the El Malpais lava tubes and La Ventana Arch?
The El Malpais lava tubes and La Ventana Arch are two striking features of El Malpais National Monument near Grants in western New Mexico. The lava tubes are cave systems formed when flowing lava cooled on the surface while molten rock drained away beneath, leaving tunnels, some of which hold ice year-round. La Ventana Arch, meaning the window, is one of the largest natural arches in New Mexico, a beautiful sandstone span easily viewed near the monument. Together, the lava tube caves and the graceful arch showcase the remarkable volcanic and erosional forces that shaped El Malpais, offering fascinating and photogenic natural wonders in western New Mexico.
Can you explore the lava tube caves at El Malpais?
Yes, some of the lava tube caves at El Malpais can be explored, but caving here requires a free permit from the monument, along with proper gear including a helmet, sturdy boots, and multiple sources of light, and preparation, since the caves are dark, cold, and have rough, uneven footing where it is easy to get hurt or lost. Some caves hold ice and have their own rules to protect them. Because caving is inherently risky, only well-prepared visitors should attempt it. Checking current cave access, obtaining the required permit, and coming properly equipped are essential for safely exploring the lava tubes.
How do you visit La Ventana Arch?
La Ventana Arch is one of the more accessible features of the El Malpais area, viewable from a pullout and a short trail near the arch off the highway on the monument's east side, requiring little effort to see and photograph this beautiful sandstone span. A short walk brings you closer to the base for a better view. It makes an easy and rewarding stop, especially combined with the nearby Sandstone Bluffs Overlook. Checking current access and road conditions before you go is wise. The easy access makes La Ventana Arch a lovely and convenient natural highlight of a visit to El Malpais.
When is the best time to visit the El Malpais lava tubes and La Ventana Arch?
Spring and fall offer the most comfortable temperatures for exploring the area and the rugged lava terrain, while La Ventana Arch is easily viewed year-round in good weather, and the caves stay cool inside in any season, requiring warm layers for exploring. Summer can be hot on the exposed surface, so early starts are best, and winter can bring snow and ice. For arch viewing and comfortable surface hiking, aim for spring or fall, and for caving, come prepared for the cold caves year-round with a permit and proper gear. Checking current access is wise.
What is near the El Malpais lava tubes and La Ventana Arch?
The lava tubes and La Ventana Arch are within and near El Malpais National Monument by Grants in western New Mexico, close to the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook, the El Morro National Monument with its inscription rock, the New Mexico Mining Museum in Grants, and within reach of Acoma Pueblo and the historic Route 66 corridor. That makes the lava tubes and La Ventana Arch fascinating stops to combine with El Morro, the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook, Acoma Pueblo, and the other attractions of western New Mexico on a visit to the state.
Nearby
El Malpais National Monument
7.3 miles away
The youngest lava flows at El Malpais are geologically fresh, meaning the rock surface is still sharp and unstable in places.
Sandstone Bluffs Overlook
11 miles away
Pull off NM-117, follow the short paved path to the overlook. The entire visit takes 15 minutes. No fee for the overlook.
Acoma Pueblo
25 miles away
Acoma people have lived on this mesa for close to a thousand years, and families still keep homes at the top without running water or electricity, using the village for ceremony and heritage.