Villages of Van Buren and Bentonsport
23298-23528 Rte J40, Keosauqua, IA
Keosauqua, IA
A string of quiet nineteenth-century river towns strung along a bend of the Des Moines, where time seems to have paused among old brick storefronts and iron bridges.
The Villages of Van Buren County are a cluster of small, remarkably well-preserved nineteenth-century towns strung along a bend of the Des Moines River in the far southeast corner of Iowa. Anchored by the county seat of Keosauqua and the tiny riverside hamlet of Bentonsport, they make up one of the least-changed and most atmospheric stretches of the state.
In the 1800s these towns bustled with river trade, mills, and travelers on the road west, and several of them expected to grow into cities. History passed them by instead, and the railroads and highways went elsewhere, which is exactly why their old brick storefronts, iron bridges, and river landings survive today, drawing visitors who come to wander through a landscape where time seems to have slowed.
What Guests Love
- A string of intact 1800s river towns with old brick storefronts
- Bentonsport's historic iron bridge and riverfront craft shops
- A deeply preserved, slow-paced stretch of the Des Moines River valley
- Antique shops, potters, and craftspeople in the old buildings
Worth Knowing
- The villages are small and seasonal, so many shops keep warm-weather hours
- It is a driving loop, so a car and an unhurried afternoon are the way to see it
- Roads follow the river and can flood, so check conditions in wet seasons
- This is quiet country with few services, so plan meals and fuel ahead
Details
Keosauqua, IA
Learn about Villages of Van Buren and Bentonsport
River towns that time forgot
In the middle of the nineteenth century, the Des Moines River was a highway, and the towns along it in Van Buren County thrived on milling, trade, and the traffic of settlers moving west. Bentonsport, Bonaparte, Keosauqua, and their neighbors each had their moment of ambition, with mills, hotels, and busy landings, and some were even mentioned as candidates for greater things.
But the river proved hard to keep navigable, and when the main rail and road routes bypassed the county, its towns stopped growing. What might have been a story of decline became, over time, a story of preservation, as the very lack of development left the old buildings standing. Today the villages market themselves together as a step back into the river-town Iowa of the 1800s.
Bentonsport and its bridge
Bentonsport is the jewel of the group, a tiny riverside village where old brick and stone buildings line a quiet street beside the Des Moines. An iron truss bridge crosses the river here, one of the older surviving spans in the region, and the riverfront has an unhurried, timeless feel that photographers and history lovers prize.
The old buildings now house potters, craftspeople, antique dealers, and a historic inn, giving the village a gentle second life as a place to browse, wander, and stay overnight. It is small enough to see on foot in an easy afternoon, with the river always close at hand.
Keosauqua and the river valley
Keosauqua, the county seat, sits on a horseshoe bend of the Des Moines and holds one of the oldest county courthouses in continuous use in Iowa, along with historic buildings tied to the days of river trade and the Underground Railroad. It is the natural hub for exploring the villages and the surrounding valley.
Just outside town, Lacey-Keosauqua State Park spreads across the wooded bluffs of the river bend, one of the largest state parks in Iowa, with a lake, trails, and ancient Native mounds. Together the villages and the park make the lower Des Moines valley a rewarding destination for a slow, history-minded weekend.
Season by season
Spring and summer bring the villages to life, with the shops open, the river running full, and the timber and gardens green. It is the easiest time to catch the craftspeople and inns at work and to combine village-hopping with the state park.
Fall is a favorite, when the wooded river bends turn to color and the crisp air suits a driving loop through the towns. Winter quiets everything down, with many shops on reduced hours, leaving a hushed, snow-dusted landscape for those who come to see the old towns at rest.
Closest Boutels
The closest Boutel™ stays, so you can turn this stop into an overnight. Each is an independently owned, editorially selected place to stay.
Things to Do Near Keosauqua
Lacey-Keosauqua State Park
About 2 miles
One of Iowa's largest state parks, wrapping a horseshoe bend of the Des Moines River, with a lake, wooded trails, and ancient mounds.
Bonaparte
About 6 miles
Another preserved river village in the group, with a historic milling district and old commercial buildings along the Des Moines.
Keosauqua
About 2 miles
The county seat on a bend of the river, with one of Iowa's oldest working courthouses and historic river-town architecture.