Smith Rock State Park

The cliffs of Smith Rock are welded tuff, rock formed from volcanic ash that fell and fused together during eruptions long ago, part of a landscape shaped by the fiery volcanic history of Central Oregon. Over vast stretches of time the Crooked River cut down through this rock, carving the deep canyon and the dramatic bend that gives the park its shape. The result is a maze of spires, buttresses, and vertical faces glowing in shades of rust and gold.

That combination of hard, featured rock and sheer walls is exactly what makes the park so special to climbers, and so striking to everyone else. The stone catches the light differently through the day, softest at dawn and dusk, and the canyon holds the river like a ribbon of green far below the rim.

Smith Rock's place in climbing history is real and specific. In the 1980s a young local climber named Alan Watts began establishing bolted routes here, protecting hard climbs with anchors drilled into the rock rather than gear placed by hand, and in doing so he helped bring the European style of sport climbing to the United States. Smith Rock became its American cradle, and climbers came from everywhere to test themselves on its walls.

The most famous route of all, called To Bolt or Not to Be, was rated 5.14 and is often cited as the first climb of that difficulty established in the country, a milestone that put Smith Rock on the world map. Above it all stands Monkey Face, a slender freestanding spire some 350 feet tall that looks, from the right angle, like a monkey's head, and whose summit is one of the most coveted and photographed climbs anywhere.

You do not need ropes to have a great day here. The signature hike is Misery Ridge, a steep, switchbacking climb that earns its name and then rewards it with one of the finest views in Oregon, looking down over Monkey Face, the river bend, and the whole sweep of cliffs. Many hikers link it with the River Trail along the Crooked River for a loop that shows off the park from top and bottom.

Gentler options follow the river or trace the rim, and wildlife is part of the experience throughout. Golden eagles and other raptors nest on the cliffs, river otters work the Crooked River, and deer move through the sagebrush at the edges of the day. Because raptors nest here, the park closes certain routes seasonally to protect them, a small thing that keeps this a living landscape and not just a climbing gym in the open air.

The park sits just off US-97 near Terrebonne, about nine miles northeast of Redmond and roughly half an hour north of Bend, reached by Crooked River Drive down to the day-use area. It is a day-use state park with a parking fee, and larger vehicles like buses, RVs, and trailers use the overflow lot. The main lot fills quickly on weekends and in fine weather, so an early start is the surest way to get in.

This is high desert, hot and exposed in summer with little shade on the climbs, so carry more water than you think you need and start before the heat builds. Give Misery Ridge and the River Trail the time they deserve, keep dogs leashed, and give climbers and nesting raptors their space. Smith Rock rewards a full, unhurried day among some of the most spectacular rock in the West.

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Not at all. Smith Rock is famous as one of the birthplaces of American sport climbing, and watching climbers work the sheer faces is part of the fun, but the park is laced with hiking trails for everyone. Easy paths follow the Crooked River along the base of the rock, while more ambitious hikers tackle the steep climb over the spires, so there is a route for most abilities.

Misery Ridge earns its name. It is the park's most strenuous hike, climbing steeply up and over the rock formations with a lot of elevation gain and little shade, though the views from the top over the Crooked River and the high desert are the park's best. The west side has stretches of loose gravel, so many hikers take the loop clockwise, use trekking poles, and take their time on the descent.

Spring and fall are the most comfortable, with pleasant temperatures and thinner crowds. This is high desert, so summer days can climb past one hundred degrees with almost no shade on the trails, which is why many visitors hike early in the morning or in the late afternoon during the hot months. Winter can be crisp and clear but cold.

Plenty of water is the big one, since the trails are exposed and there is little shade from the sun. A hat, sunglasses, sunblock, and sturdy shoes with good grip are all worth having, and trekking poles help on the loose, rocky sections. As in much of the high desert, it is wise to stay on the trails and watch where you step and reach, especially in the warmer months.

Yes. The cliffs are a nesting site for birds of prey, and golden eagles, prairie falcons, and other raptors are often seen riding the air along the rock, which is why some climbing routes close seasonally to protect nesting birds. River otters, deer, and marmots also turn up along the Crooked River below.