Island in the Sky

The whole of Canyonlands has been shaped by the Green and Colorado rivers, which meet just south of the mesa and, over millions of years, have carved down through layer after layer of ancient rock. Island in the Sky is the high remnant left standing between and above their canyons, a broad platform of erosion-resistant sandstone with the softer rock all around it worn away into the maze of gorges below.

From the mesa's rim the erosion is laid out like a diagram. Below the top cliffs lies a broad bench called the White Rim, and below that the rivers cut still deeper into older rock. Each level records a different chapter of ancient seas, deserts, and floodplains, so that looking down from Grand View Point is like looking down through hundreds of millions of years of the earth's history at once.

One of the mesa's strangest features is Upheaval Dome, a great circular crater of tortured, upturned rock unlike anything around it. For a long time geologists argued over how it formed. One idea held that a dome of salt buried deep below slowly pushed up and warped the rock above it, while another proposed that a meteorite struck here long ago and blasted out the crater, its impact scrambling the layers.

Evidence has increasingly favored the meteorite explanation, with shocked minerals and other clues pointing to an ancient impact, though the debate has given the place a lasting air of mystery. A short trail leads to overlooks on its rim, where you can peer down into the jumbled bull's-eye of rock and ponder the violence that may have made it.

This is the ancestral homeland of the Ute, Southern Paiute, and Navajo peoples, whose ties to the canyon country endure, and it lies near the heart of a region long inhabited. Their connections to this land remain living and present today. Earlier still, the Ancestral Puebloan and Fremont peoples farmed the river bottoms and mesas of the wider Canyonlands region, leaving dwellings, granaries, and rock art in its side canyons.

The mesa top earned its name from ranchers who once ran cattle up on this high, isolated pasture, reached only across the narrow neck of land. In the twentieth century, prospectors bulldozed rough roads across the country below in search of uranium, and some of those tracks became the routes that jeeps and mountain bikes now follow along the White Rim. Canyonlands was set aside as a national park in 1964 to protect this vast and rugged landscape.

For all its bare rock, the mesa holds desert life. Desert bighorn sheep pick their way along the ledges below the rim, mule deer and coyotes range the flats, and lizards and jackrabbits are common in the warm months. Ravens and hawks ride the updrafts along the cliffs, and after a rain the desert can bloom with brief, bright wildflowers.

Spring and fall are the best seasons, with mild days ideal for the overlooks and trails, while summer brings fierce heat and little shade, making an early start essential. Winter is cold and quiet, with a dusting of snow on the red rock making for unforgettable views. In any season the great moment is sunrise at Mesa Arch, when the rising sun sets the underside of the arch glowing over the canyons beyond, one of the most photographed scenes in the West.

The closest Boutel™ stays, so you can turn this stop into an overnight. Each is an independently owned, editorially selected place to stay.