Harding Icefield Trail

The trail wastes no time going up. It leaves the valley floor near Exit Glacier and switchbacks through cottonwood and alder forest, then into open alpine meadows where in summer the slopes fill with wildflowers. All the while Exit Glacier sinks farther below, giving a growing sense of just how high you are climbing.

Near the top the greenery gives way to bare rock and snow, and a small emergency shelter marks the final push. Then the icefield appears, and the effort of the climb falls away in front of a view few places on earth can match.

The Harding Icefield is one of the largest icefields entirely within the United States, a remnant of the ice ages that still blankets the heart of the Kenai Mountains. Hundreds of feet of snow fall on it each year, more than can melt, and that endless supply is what feeds the tidewater and valley glaciers that make Kenai Fjords famous.

From the overlook the icefield looks like a still, white sea, with only the tops of the tallest peaks, called nunataks, rising above it. It is a rare chance to stand at the edge of the force that carved the whole landscape below.

The meadows along the trail are home to hoary marmots, which whistle from the rocks, and both black bears and brown bears use the area, so hikers should make noise, carry bear spray, and stay alert, especially where berries are ripe. Mountain goats are sometimes spotted on the high slopes.

Weather on the mountain changes fast and the upper trail can hold snow and ice into the summer, hiding the path and making footing tricky. Checking current trail conditions at the ranger station before you start, and turning back if the weather closes in, are part of hiking here safely.

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The Harding Icefield Trail is a strenuous day hike in Kenai Fjords National Park near Seward, Alaska, that climbs about 3,500 feet over roughly four miles from the Exit Glacier area to an overlook of the vast Harding Icefield. Considered one of the finest day hikes in Alaska, it passes through forest and alpine wildflower meadows before reaching a world of rock, snow, and ice, where hikers look out over an enormous sheet of ice that feeds nearly forty glaciers. The trail rewards a hard climb with one of the most spectacular views in the national park.

The Harding Icefield Trail is a challenging, strenuous hike. It gains roughly 3,500 feet of elevation over about four miles each way, so the full round trip is about eight miles of steep climbing and descending and takes most hikers a good part of the day. Snow often lingers on the upper portion of the trail well into summer, which can hide the route and make footing slippery. It rewards the effort with an incredible view, but hikers should be in good shape, carry plenty of water and layers, and be ready to turn around if weather or snow conditions make the upper trail unsafe.

Yes, carrying bear spray is strongly recommended on the Harding Icefield Trail. The trail passes through prime habitat for both black bears and brown bears, especially in the berry-rich meadows, and encounters do happen. Making noise as you hike, staying alert, hiking in a group when possible, and carrying bear spray where you can reach it quickly all help keep both you and the bears safe. It is also wise to ask rangers about recent bear activity before you set out. Treating this as real bear country is simply part of hiking responsibly in Kenai Fjords.

The best time to hike the Harding Icefield Trail is generally mid to late summer, once most of the winter and spring snow has melted off the upper trail, typically from around July into September, though conditions vary from year to year. Earlier in the season the upper switchbacks can still be buried in snow, which hides the route and requires extra caution and gear. Summer also brings the wildflowers and the most stable weather, though rain and clouds are always possible. Checking current trail and snow conditions at the Exit Glacier ranger station before you start is the best way to pick the right day.

The Harding Icefield Trail starts at the Exit Glacier area of Kenai Fjords National Park, at the end of Herman Leirer Road (also called Exit Glacier Road), about a dozen miles northwest of Seward. This is the only part of the park reachable by car. From the Exit Glacier Nature Center the trail branches off the lower glacier-view paths and begins its long climb up the mountainside. Because it shares a trailhead with the easy Exit Glacier walks, many visitors pair a look at Exit Glacier with all or part of the climb toward the icefield overlook.